It’s a mature style, Bollinger, an evolved wine that tends to reel in epithets like ‘robust’. But we’re not at the saleyards, here. It opens with a fresh, citrus-influenced zestiness, chalking up some minerality and subtle yeast at the outset. Expansion occurs on your palate in the most joyous fashion, delivering delicious blow after blow of doughy/baked bread delights and nutty hints ridden by a wave of ample appley authority. The depth is unplumbable, the texture indescribable, the experience inimitable.